What Pearls are Most Popular?

From our years and years in the jewelry business I think it accurate to say there are two factors governing Pearl popularity:  Personal tastes, and budget.  That is just our opinion, but we see the theme played out often over time.
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We discuss types of Pearls in detail in other posts, just search "Pearls" from any of our Search Boxes to find these in our Jewelry Blog.  But to quickly recap the two basic types of Pearls are those grown in freshwater and those grown in salt water.  Pearls grown in freshwater mollusks mature faster and are larger.  Pearls grown in salt water mollusks have a range of sizes, but take much longer to reach maturity, hence, salt water Pearls have a higher price.  Of the variables used to determine Pearl value, the most discerning is luster.  The outer brilliance of the Pearl.  Freshwater Pearls tend to have a softer luster; salt water Pearls achieve - in almost every category - a much higher luster.  So in order of "Popularity" for the budget minded, assuming average to high grading:  

• Freshwater Pearls;
• Small to Medium (5mm - 7mm) Salt Water Akoya Pearls;
• smaller Salt Water Tahitian Pearls;
• smaller Salt Water South Sea Pearls;
• large to very large (7mm - 9+mm) Salt Water Akoya Pearls;
• Large Salt Water Tahitian Pearls;
• Large Salt Water South Sea Pearls;
• Salt Water South Sea Golden Pearls.  

Where budget isn't an issue:

Large South Sea Golden Pearls
Large South Sea White Pearls
Large Tahitian Pearls 
Large and Very Large Akoya Pearls

The universal popularity of Akoya Pearls cannot be overstated.  They are the "mainstream" of the Cultured Pearl trade.  Mikimoto Pearls, for example, are typically regarded as the best-of-the-best Akoya Pearls, and are usually marketed in the small to medium Akoya Pearl range.

Akoya pearls typically range in size from 5 mm to 9 mm in diameter. Here’s a more detailed breakdown:

• Small Akoya pearls: 5 mm to 6 mm
• Medium Akoya pearls: 6 mm to 7 mm
• Large Akoya pearls: 7 mm to 8 mm
• Very large Akoya pearls: 8 mm to 9 mm

While Akoya pearls can occasionally be found outside this size range, pearls larger than 9 mm are quite rare and usually more expensive. The most common and classic sizes for Akoya pearl necklaces are around 6 mm to 7.5 mm due to their balance of size, elegance, and affordability.

We are also frequently asked about Pearl Lustre and why we consider it to be the single best determinant of quality Pearls.  The nacre is the calcium carbonate deposit secreted by mollusks around the bead or tissue nucleus of a Pearl.  In freshwater Pearls the Pearl is almost all nacre, but its reflective properties appear softer than the nacre of Saltwater Pearls.  For Saltwater Pearls nacre is typically graded by it thickness as Thin, Medium, or Thick.  While it is not always true for Freshwater Pearls, As a Rule of Thumb, the thicker the nacre of Saltwater Pearls, the greater the lustre and greater the durability.

These are nacre thickness considerations:

The thickness of nacre (the layers of calcium carbonate that form around the nucleus in cultured pearls) can vary significantly based on the type of pearl and the grading system used. The distinction between thin, medium, and thick nacre generally refers to the amount of nacre that has been deposited around the bead nucleus.
While the exact thickness for nacre grades varies by pearl type and region, below are general guidelines, especially for Akoya pearls, which are known for having thinner nacre compared to pearls like South Sea or Tahitian pearls.
Nacre Thickness Gradings (for Akoya Pearls)

1. Thin Nacre:
   
   • 0.25 mm to 0.35 mm of nacre.
   • Pearls with thin nacre often show visible signs of the underlying bead nucleus over time, such as dull spots or peeling. Thin nacre is generally considered less desirable as it affects the pearl's durability and luster.
2. Medium Nacre:
   
   • 0.35 mm to 0.5 mm of nacre.
   • Pearls in this category have a better balance of durability and luster. Medium nacre is considered acceptable for many commercial-grade pearls, but it is not the highest quality.
3. Thick Nacre:
   
   • 0.5 mm and above, sometimes exceeding 1 mm in exceptional cases.
   • Thick nacre provides a deep, rich luster and more durability. These pearls tend to be of higher quality and can last much longer without showing signs of wear.

Nacre Thickness for Other Types of Pearls:

• South Sea Pearls: The nacre thickness can be 2 mm to 6 mm, significantly thicker than Akoya pearls. These pearls are known for their very thick nacre, resulting in a lustrous and durable surface.
• Tahitian Pearls: The nacre thickness typically ranges from 1 mm to 4 mm, with thicker nacre being more desirable for its durability and deep luster.
• Freshwater Pearls: Unlike Akoya pearls, most freshwater pearls are composed entirely of nacre (with no bead nucleus), so nacre thickness isn’t typically a grading factor in the same way.

Quality and Durability Considerations:

• Thin nacre: More prone to chipping, peeling, or dulling over time. Thin-nacre pearls tend to lose their luster quickly and may expose the nucleus.
• Thick nacre: More durable and long-lasting, with richer, deeper luster. Thick-nacre pearls can maintain their beauty for many years.

For most pearl enthusiasts and buyers, medium to thick nacre is considered desirable due to its durability and enhanced luster.